If there were ever rehab for recovering nail extension addicts, I’d be first in line. My most faithful engagement is the monthly appointment I have at my nail salon, where I’m hopelessly seduced by gel manicures and feline almond tips. “This is an obsession that doesn’t hurt anybody,” I rationalise. But if cuticles could speak, mine would scream in protest. Dabbling in BIAB, acrylics, and Gel X has found me in dire need of the best cuticle oils for brittle nails. So, I went straight to the pros to discover the cuticle treatments they recommend.
Meet the experts
- Leighton Denny MBE is a nail expert and natural nailcare brand founder.
- Iram Shelton is a celebrity nail artist and resident manicurist at the Bvlgari Hotel London Spa.
- Tinu Bello is a celebrity manicurist, nail educator and the founder of Manicured London nail salon.
- Johanna Horn is a nail technician specialising in Biosculpture, whose work has been seen on prolific beauty editors and the runway at London Fashion Week.
What are the signs you need a cuticle oil?
Common signs that you need a cuticle oil include cracked or visibly dry skin, hangnails and nails that break easily. But there are other symptoms experts say are often overlooked. “White patches on the nail signal dehydration,” pro manicurist Tinu explains. “Clients who experience excessive cuticle overgrowth may actually be dealing with dryness, as dehydrated skin tends to cling to the nail plate more aggressively. Another telltale sign is poor gel retention or premature lifting, which can result from dry skin failing to support the flexibility of gel polish.”
What does cuticle oil do for nails?
Cuticle oils offer several benefits for all nails, but especially dry and brittle nails. Massaging cuticle oil into the skin and on the nails can help boost blood circulation, encouraging nail growth. Because they penetrate and hydrate the nailbed, they can help smooth roughness and ridges caused by dry skin conditions. The pros say that regular cuticle oiling will increase the longevity of your gel manicures, too, since polish adheres better to a supple nail surface. And of course, they add a coat of picture-perfect shine – which isn’t just Instagrammable, but forms a protective barrier against chipped polish, infection and moisture loss.
What to look for in a cuticle oil
According to Leighton, botanical oils work best to nourish weak nails. There some key types worth looking out for:
- Jojoba oil: Closely mimics skin’s natural sebum, deeply penetrating the nail matrix and skin.
- Sweet almond oil: Rich in fatty acids and vitamins, it helps to soften rough skin.
- Avocado oil: Offers deep hydration which boosts elasticity in skin.
- Rice bran oil: A lightweight oil that Leighton says is often overlooked, it brings myriad benefits. Non greasy and fast absorbing – so ideal for daily use – it’s also rich in Vitamin E which nourishes and protects nails and skin. And, packed with anti-inflammatory phytosterols, it helps to soothe cracked skin around the nail.
- Omega-6 and 9 fatty acids: These nourish and support skin barrier function.
- Squalane: similar to the skin’s own moisturisng factors, this sinks in speedily and has a softening effect on cuticles.
- Tea tree oil: this essential oil has fungicidal and antbacterial properties which are great for preventing infections.
If you prefer scented cuticle oils, Leighton suggests opting for essential oil blends over artificial fragrances. There also some ingredients the expert recommends avoiding:
- Silicones, which create a slip but don’t moisturise, can block the absorption of nourishing ingredients.
- Mineral oil or petroleum-derived oils. “These sit on top of the skin and don’t nourish deeply,” says Leighton.
- Alcohol-based ingredients are drying, and as Leighton specifies, “counterproductive to the cuticle oil’s purpose.”
Consulting the pros, I discovered that cuticle oils can restore weak, damaged nails by supplying essential fatty acids and nutrients to the nail plate and surrounding skin. Well briefed with their recommendations, I needed little persuasion to play guinea pig with the many cuticle oils out there. Ahead, the very best cuticle oils I tried.
Best cuticle oils at a glance:
- The pro’s pick: Chanel L’Huile Camelia Hydrating & Fortifying Oil, £30
- Best on the go: L’Occitane Shea Nail & Cuticle Oil, £16
- Best brush on: OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil, £16.80
- Best affordable: Mylee Sweet Almond Cuticle Oil, £7.50
Best cuticle remover: Sally Hansen Cuticle Remover
- Key ingredients: potassium hydroxide, camellia leaf extract, chamomile extract
- What we love: “If a client has really tough skin or a lot of overgrown cuticles, then I’ll reach for a remover,” says Iram. “For at-home use or beginners, the Sally Hansen cuticle remover is actually a great option – it’s affordable, easy to use, and softens the cuticle well without being too harsh.” It works a treat when I try it to dissolve sticky cuticles that have crept up the surface of my nails, and without any stinging, too. I’m obsessed with how neat my nails begin to look after a few weeks of use.
Recommended by manicurists: Chanel Camelia Nail Treatment
- Key ingredients: Camellia oil, ceramides
- What we love: Horn recommends this treatment to me after applying it during a manicure, and I am immediately a convert. “It’s enriched with camellia oil and very hydrating on cuticles,” she says, attributing this to its unique gel texture. Unlike other cuticle oils, it doesn’t feel at all greasy on my fingertips, and yet it delivers moisture that stays locked in. I have its ceramides, which fortify the moisture barrier, to thank for that.
The gift-worthy find: Les Mains Hermes Nourishing Oil
- Key ingredients: sweet almond oil, castor oil, pistacia lentiscus,
- What we love: Besides the fact this bottle and its signature orange box look like decor on my dresser, the elixir inside is a luxurious treat. Blended in among the oils is precious pistacia lentiscus extract (or in layperson’s terms, mastic gum) which has bactericidal properties that are especially appealing for hangnails. Alongside the natural aroma of the latter and sweet almond oil, it’s worth noting there is a small amount of fragrance in the ingredients – but in my book, this is forgivable for an oil that feels pampering and smells so divine.
Best cuticle oil on the go: L’Occitane Shea Nail & Cuticle Oil
- Key ingredients: shea oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil
- What we love: If you wash your hands a lot, you’ll appreciate this purse-friendly find from L’Occitane. It’s packed with oils our experts recommend and won’t spill when slotted into pockets, which I find myself doing so I can top up on moisture sink-side. I’m most impressed by how well the thin brush works to gets in every crevice. It’s a godsend for getting into the nailbeds and under longer nail extensions.
Best brush-on cuticle oil: O.P.I Pro Spa
- Key ingredients: avocado oil, grapeseed oil, cupuacu oil
- What we love: This cuticle oil bears a brush well crafted for coating the nail plate which makes it super convenient to use. It’s an overachiever on the ingredients front, with five penetrative oils that are fine in texture and quickly absorbed by nails and skin. I notice that it peps up my old polish when I’m overdue a manicure, adding just-buffed shine without making my extensions lift.
Manucurist Huile Vert Nail & Cuticle Oil
- Key ingredients: sweet almond oil, coconut oil, walnut oil, baobab oil, passionfruit oil
- What we love: The dropper applicator on this bottle comes in clutch for hygienic application on hands and feet. Rich in vitamin E, it’s got various plant oils in its blend that help condition and strengthen the nailbed as well as provide antioxidant protection to inflamed or irritated skin. It’s ideal for bitten nails or hangnail sufferers as it is completely free of synthetic fragrance, but still smells delightful thanks to fruity and nutty plant extracts.
Best cuticle oil capsules: Nail Rebirth Intensive Nail Repair Capsules
- Key ingredients: sweet almond oil, jojoba oil
- What we love: The star of these capsules is Neonyca, an extract that expert Leighton tells me is “scientifically proven to hydrate and strengthen the nails.” Indeed, when I try them, I find they are like a serum for dry nails, bathing my fingertips in quick-sinking moisture and leaving them with flexible strength. Conveniently dosed, each capsule holds enough to nourish all twenty digits – a choice formula for fingertips and toenails.
